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Tile calculator & layout

Tile layout patterns: straight, offset, herringbone, diagonal

Updated: 28 August 2026

Pattern choice changes cut waste and how the room looks. Pick the bond first, then read the piece list — diagonal usually needs more cuts than a straight grid.

“How many tiles?” depends on the layout pattern, not only on room area. The same 60×60 tile on a straight grid and on a diagonal will not share the same cut list. A tile layout visualizer (or planner) is how you compare patterns before you buy.

Direct answer

Pick the bond with the client or tiler first. Run the real room size with openings. Compare piece counts between patterns if price matters. Reject any pretty pattern that leaves edge strips under 50 mm.

Common options

  • Straight (grid) — rows and columns align. Easiest to cut; clear vertical and horizontal joints. Best default for bathrooms and most DIY floors.
  • Offset / brick / running bond — each row shifts (often by half a tile). Softens long joints; watch edge cuts on both sides of the room.
  • Herringbone — strong visual, more angled cuts and usually more waste. Needs a clear origin story (centre line or door axis).
  • Diagonal — 45° feel; expect more offcuts than a straight lay on the same room. Edge triangles are easy to under-size into fragile chips.

Scalarcut supports these (and related) bonds in one planner. Change the pattern and the bill updates — whole tiles, cuts, and recommended waste for that bond.

Pattern vs waste (rule of thumb)

Pattern Typical cut complexity Notes
Straight Low Still fails if start leaves <50 mm edges
Offset Medium Check both long walls
Herringbone High Do not reuse straight-grid box counts
Diagonal High Budget extra boxes and time

These are planning heuristics, not substitutes for a piece list on your real geometry.

Practical advice

  1. Agree the pattern with the client or tiler before ordering boxes.
  2. Run the layout on the real room size, including openings.
  3. Compare piece counts between two patterns if you are choosing on price.
  4. Check thin edge cuts under Sliver Guard — a pretty pattern that leaves 30 mm strips is not a win.
  5. For floors, also read floor tile layout; for bathrooms, bathroom calculation.

Worked comparison

Same floor 4.00 m × 3.00 m, 600×600 mm tiles, 2 mm joints:

  1. Straight grid: fewer angled cuts; piece list is mostly full tiles plus straight edge cuts.
  2. Diagonal: many triangular offcuts; box count rises even if net area is identical.
  3. Herringbone (if using a compatible format): angled cuts along both axes; re-check the 50 mm rule at every perimeter wall.

If the store quote is based only on m² × 1.10, diagonal and herringbone will surprise you mid-install. Run the pattern in the planner and buy from that bill.

Visualizer checklist before you commit

  • Can you see every perimeter cut?
  • Are any strips under 50 mm?
  • Does the main sightline (door, window, island) land on a full tile or a balanced joint?
  • Does the piece list match the pattern you just chose (not yesterday’s straight-grid export)?

Next: Floor layout · Piece counts · Quick start


See also